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Rome Bars Rome Bars and PubsPubs - Birrerie in Italian - are not part of traditional Roman culture but since the first ones were introduced in the early 1990s, they have taken off with a bang. There are over 400 of them, most styled after traditional English or Irish pubs. There are also places with Australian or American themes. They offer a wide selection of draught and bottled beers and many have Guinness on tap. A favourite haunt of young foreigners, they're also popular with the locals. In the centre, try The Drunken Ship (tel 06 683 00 535, Campo de' Fiori 20), a popular haunt for those who travel to Rome, foreign students and locals, which has happy hour from 7pm to 9pm daily. Trinity College (tel 06 678 64 72, Via del Collegio Romano 6), off Via del Corso, also has a daily happy hour with a good selection of international beers and great food. Both get packed to overflowing at the weekend. Near Largo di Torre Argentina are two very popular English-style pubs: John Bull (Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 107a); and Mad Jack's (tel 06 68 80 82 23, Via Arenula 20). Ned Kelly (tel 06 683 22 20, Via delle Coppelle 13), around the corner from the Pantheon, is an Australian-style bar serving Foster's Lager and other brews. There are TV screens with satellite coverage of sports events. Another pub with an Australian theme is Four XXXX (tel 06 575 72 96, Via Galvani 29). This eclectic Testaccio haunt has undergone a bit of 'Latinisation' and has something for every one: Castlemaine XXXX on tap for homesick Aussies; tequila cocktails if you want something stronger; tasty South American food; and good live jazz or a DJ most nights. In Trastevere, Irish pub fans will find Guinness and much more at Molly Malone (Via dell 'Arco di San Calisto 17). The Fiddler's Elbow (tel 06 487 21 10, Via dell 'Olmata 43), near Santa Maria Maggiore, was one of the first Irish pubs to hit Rome and its Guinness, darts and chips formula is still very popular. The Druid's Den (tel 06 488 02 58, Via San Martino ai Monti 28) is a similar but smaller affair, with live music organised by the owners some nights. Marconi (tel 06 486 636, Via Santa Prassede 9) serves eclectic pub food - Irish breakfasts, English fish and chips and Hungarian goulash. There are a few Rome bars and pubs near Stazione Termini including Julius Caesar (tel 06 446 15 65, Via Castelfidardo 49), which has over 40 different beers. Down near the Colosseum, you can play darts and knock back a few pints at The Shamrock (Via Capo d'Africa 26d). If you're after a more traditional Roman ambience, try Bar del Fico (tel 06 686 52 05, Piazza del Fico 26). Open every day until the early hours, it's one of the Rome bars popular with local actors and artists. Gas heaters allow you to sit outside even in winter, and the place is packed all hours with people just hanging out. Nearby, Jonathan's Angels (tel 06 689 34 26, Via della Fossa 18), off Piazza del Fico, is run by an artist and the whole place - even the loo - is covered with pictures and decorations. It's a relaxed place for a late-night drink and is open till 2am. Take some serious attitude with you to Bar della Pace (tel 06 686 12 16, Via della Pace 5) near Piazza Navona, which is drowning in ivy and has a superb wood- panelled interior. It's a classically trendy place for the 'in' crowd, and as good for an early-evening aperitif outside in summer as for a leisurely nightcap inside in winter. Baronato Quattro Bellezze (tel 06 687 28 65, Via di Panico 23), between Via dei Coronari and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, is quirky and original. Late on Thursday nights, drag-queen owner Dominot dons gown and wig and performs Piaf songs to piano accompaniment. A menu of mainly Tunisian meals and snacks will sustain you through your cocktail tipples, vin chaud or amaro . Reserve a table for the Piaf show.
Wine BarsWine bars, known as enoteche or vini e oli, are a feature of most Roman neighbourhoods, especially in the older areas of the city. They sell wine, spirits and olive oil and are often frequented by groups of elderly locals enjoying a glass of wine and a chat, in much the same manner as they might have a coffee at a bar. In recent years, a more sophisticated breed of enoteca has appeared on the scene attracting a different crowd from the regular drinkers. Many of these offer snacks or light meals in addition to an extensive range of wines that you can taste by the glass (alla mescita or al bicchiere) or buy by the bottle. Some have live music and run courses in Italian wines. The Vineria in Campo de' Fiori (tel 06 688 03 268), also known as Da Giorgio, has a wide selection of wine and beers and was once the gathering place of the Roman literati. Today it is less glamorous but still a good place to drink (although cheap only if you stand at the bar) and has some light snacks. Off one end of Campo de' Fiori in Via dei Balestrari, is L'Angolo Divino (tel 06 686 44 13), a charming place with wooden beams and terracotta floors. For many years it was a simple vini e oli outlet but now serves a variety of interesting dishes, including at least one hot dish daily and an excellent selection of cheeses to compliment its changing selection of a dozen wines by the glass. The owner is well informed and happy to share his knowledge. Themed wine-tasting evenings are held throughout the year. Atmospheric Bevitoria Navona (tel 06 68 80 10 22, Piazza Navona 72) is one of the more reasonably priced watering holes in this touristy area. You can get a glass of wine at the bar for a reasonable price - although expect to pay much higher prices if you sit outside. In winter, mulled wine is available. Ask the owner to take you down to the cellar to see some remains of Domitian's stadium, on top of which Piazza Navona was built. Enoteca Piccolo (tel 06 688 01 746, Via del Governo Vecchi 75) has a good selection of Italian wines and also serves snacks. Across Corso Vittorio Emanuele II is Il Goccetto (tel 06 686 42 68, Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14), one of Rome 's more serious wine bars with a huge selection of well-priced wines from all over the world. There's usually a choice of up to 20 wines by the glass, and plates of cheese or salami are available to soak up what you're tasting. The proprietors are friendly, welcoming and informative. Most of the customers are regulars who live nearby and drop in for a drink after work. Trimani (tel 06 446 96 61, Via Cernaia 37), near Stazione Termini, is the city's biggest enoteca and serves excellent soups, pasta and torta rustica (quiche). Trimani has a vast selection of Italian regional wines and regularly hosts wine-tasting courses. The popular Cavour 313 (tel 06 678 54 96, Via Cavour 313) is always full of people. You can choose from over 500 bottles, many of which are by the glass, and there are hot and cold snacks to keep you going hungry. Antica Enoteca (tel 06 679 08 96, Via delia Croce 76b) is a local institution in the Piazza di Spagna area and has always been popular with shopkeepers and shoppers alike. It has a wood-panelled interior and tables outside in summer. Wines are available by the glass. There's a cold buffet at the impressive, polished wood-and-brass counter and a good selection of wines. There's also a restaurant at the back if you need something more substantial. Towards the Vatican , on the corner of Piazza Cavour and Via Tacito is Il Simposio (tel 06 321 15 02). In-the-know Romans now frequent this enoteca for the food as much as the wines; if you can't afford either (it is on the pricey side) it's worth going just to see the vine-and-grape motif decoration that covers the place. Another cheaper option, although less central, is the tiny Tastevin (tel 06 320 80 56, Via Ciro Menotti 16). The list features around 120 wines, with a weekly selection of a dozen wines that you can taste by the glass. The food is good too. You can nibble on cheeses and salamis, tuck into a daily hot dish or chomp on a choice of salads. Save space for a slice of torta caprese , a delicious almond and chocolate cake. It's closed for Saturday lunch, all Sunday and Monday evening. In Trastevere, Ferrara (tel 06 580 37 69, Via del Moro la) has an exhaustive list of regional Italian wines and great food (the hearty winter soups and desserts are especially good). There's no messing around here - the wine list is two encyclopedic volumes - one for reds and one for whites. You'll probably have to book to get a table. Nearby, at Il Cantiniere di Santa Dorotea (tel 06 581 90 25, Via di Santa Dorotea 9), there's a lengthy selection of wine by the glass (or beer if you prefer) and a good-value menu. The vaulted ceilings and exposed bricks give the place a cellar feel. The tables outside are inviting in summer although there's a lot of passing traffic. Here are some more great Rome bars worth a try!
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